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Post by bbh on Apr 29, 2018 19:39:16 GMT
I do have the rods / levers etc from the original set-up (looks like a pile of scrap at the bottom of a box if I am honest) but don't plan to re-install. Cable conversion is the plan.
I am looking for creating solutions on how best to achieve this, both in terms of the link to the pedal shaft itself and also at the carbs end. I am hoping to make this as unobtrusive as possible, but still functioning smoothly / reliably.
If you have done this or have some pictures of ones already converted, please post - any input welcome.
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bn6
Junior Member
Once a BT-7 Owner, now a BN6 100/6 Owner
Posts: 89
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Post by bn6 on Apr 30, 2018 17:59:53 GMT
I had mine converted to cable, if you zoom in you can see the silver bracket attached to the spindle shaft between the carbs. The other end can just be seen attached to the accelerator pedal shaft, just behind the last spark plug lead on the left. I kept part of the throttle linkages in place so that the overdrive unit continued to work normally. Hope it helps.
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Post by bbh on Apr 30, 2018 20:01:06 GMT
Many thanks, really helpful. I note that your cable runs under the engine and pulls down, so avoiding the crossing cable on top, which neatens things up a bit. You don't happen to have close up of the pedal shaft attachment points do you, just working out the detail. I have seen some of the "works" type, but they are quite big - I guess functionality won over finesse.
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bn6
Junior Member
Once a BT-7 Owner, now a BN6 100/6 Owner
Posts: 89
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Post by bn6 on Apr 30, 2018 20:21:06 GMT
Mine is not that big its just a clamp that attaches to the accelerator pedal shaft, I am away until next week but will get a picture on return and post it.
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Post by dougie on May 2, 2018 3:53:30 GMT
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bn6
Junior Member
Once a BT-7 Owner, now a BN6 100/6 Owner
Posts: 89
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Post by bn6 on May 2, 2018 18:33:39 GMT
Dougie, were did you get the Ruddspeed manifolds from and do the come in 1 3/4" for HD6 carbs or only for the HD8's ?
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Post by bbh on May 2, 2018 21:23:05 GMT
Dougie, many thanks for the pictures, I remembered from a previous post that your cable also comes up from the bottom, like bn6's. Do you have the cable bracket attached to the heat shield? I can see it in the picture but not where it attaches. Also have you changed to a braided outer cable rather then the plastic coated in the AH Spares kit. (I am guessing that whilst you started with the kit, most of the parts you have changed along the way) Doing a bit of research I found an article by Lin Rose, summarising some additional approaches which adds to the mix.... valvechatter.us/?p=6497I also found a picture of one of the Sebring race cars with engine out which shows the approach here, but a bit low res to pick up the detail, but you get the gist. and finally a picture from SMO 716, which uses the above route, simillar to the works approach at the pedal end (although capacity for twin cables) and using the DWM bracket at the carbs. P.S. bn6, your engine bay looks very tidy
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Post by healeyneil on May 3, 2018 17:11:05 GMT
I wish I could add to this thread, but I struggle to remember how I did mine, and certainly dont have photos, sorry. It wasnt difficult tho, just figure out how you want the cable to run, then make appropriate fittings. Got to be better than the original rod system !
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Post by dougie on May 5, 2018 1:16:36 GMT
Dougie, were did you get the Ruddspeed manifolds from and do the come in 1 3/4" for HD6 carbs or only for the HD8's ? I sourced this period part at International Autojumble in Beaulieu years ago. I just needed the right car to install it on.
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Post by dougie on May 5, 2018 1:19:14 GMT
Dougie, many thanks for the pictures, I remembered from a previous post that your cable also comes up from the bottom, like bn6's. Do you have the cable bracket attached to the heat shield? I can see it in the picture but not where it attaches. Also have you changed to a braided outer cable rather then the plastic coated in the AH Spares kit. (I am guessing that whilst you started with the kit, most of the parts you have changed along the way) Doing a bit of research I found an article by Lin Rose, summarising some additional approaches which adds to the mix.... valvechatter.us/?p=6497I also found a picture of one of the Sebring race cars with engine out which shows the approach here, but a bit low res to pick up the detail, but you get the gist. and finally a picture from SMO 716, which uses the above route, simillar to the works approach at the pedal end (although capacity for twin cables) and using the DWM bracket at the carbs. P.S. bn6, your engine bay looks very tidy Yes, I upgraded the cable to this multi-adjustable unit. www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/TC-1000HT/10002/-1
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bn6
Junior Member
Once a BT-7 Owner, now a BN6 100/6 Owner
Posts: 89
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Post by bn6 on May 5, 2018 17:49:56 GMT
bbh thanks for the compliment, I will be replacing those two red heater hoses soon with the same black silicon hoses as fitted to the radiator, they driving me mad. Here are a couple of closer pics of my throttle arrangement.
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Post by bbh on May 5, 2018 20:03:18 GMT
Dougie, bn6, many thanks to you both for the additional info.
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Post by bbh on Jun 28, 2018 19:34:32 GMT
Hopefully taking inspiration from all of the above, I have made a start at the pedal end. Originally on a RHD when the pedal shaft came through the side of the pedal box, it was held in place by a thin tin cup which had a felt washer inside (top two on picture below) I thought that this could be improved, and found the bearing, which was the right size for the pedal shaft, and is 2mm thinner than the original cup (bottom of above picture). Then drawing on the approach of the DMD solution I made up a plate in aluminium as a trial which would also act as a stop for the outer cable which I plan to run under the bulkhead (in a similar position to the original rods) and keep things aligned. This was then copied to 2mm stainless and fixed in-place. At the moment I am using the original lever, albeit straightened, although I am looking for a more elegant solution! At the other end I will come up under the carbs, using the "v" bracket to hold the outer cable and up to the fixing on the carb throttle rod. In this was the cable will run pretty much out of sight and leave the top of the rocker cover free. Just need to decide on which cable to use....
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Post by bbh on Apr 27, 2020 19:19:04 GMT
To update / complete this thread just in case it may be helpful to some-one .... The image below shows the original lever (top) and one I made up from some Aluminium bar. I drilled in a few holes to give some flexibility in mounting position and hence "pull length" This shows the final assembly at the throttle end The cable was run under the bulkhead and secured in-place using a couple of made up brackets bolted into the original captive nuts which were used to secure the throttle lever originally At the carb end, remember I am running triple SU's, I used the "V" bracket which came in the kit I had, but bent slightly and with a bracket screwed to the end to hold the outer cable. At the top I removed the original rod to which the SU actuating levers are attached and replaced this with a slightly longer SS rod and re-attached the original fittings, but also a bracket at the end to take the cable. This bracket was from the "kit" but will likely be replaced by a throttle lever bracket fro. Burlen (once they are open again). To this I attached a Lokar throttle bracket to secure the cable.
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