I am looking at rebuilding my 2.6 100/6 engine, if possible having it bored to nearer 2.9 capacity and while at it doing most of the mods you completed for a road fast version. The engine is the later version with the detachable inlet manifold the same as the 3000's fitted with 2 HD6s so a good one for port polishing instead of changing to an alloy head, have you an idea what it has cost you for your engine up grade ? and what is the expected HP increase ?
Here's some good information to read on that engine upgrade.
The original camshaft wasn’t in too bad a condition and a good candidate to be re-profiled. Looking at the options available, see table below:
After some advice, I plumped for the Kent Cams AH2 profile with new cam followers.
Kent claim that the AH2 will give an extra 20bhp at the wheels – we shall see.
Although not mentioned on their web site, this cam is not far from the DWR8, which required valve pockets to be cut in the block. After some measurement, we decided that we would need these with the Kent profile and cut them in.
Not clear from your picture relating to valve pockets being cut because of the new camshaft profile as there are no pistons showing.
Are your valve pockets also extended in to the piston tops ?
The pistons on my engine at TDC are flush with the top of the cylinder liner/block so would have to have the pocket cut in to the piston as well, is this the case with your engine ? any chance of a picture ?
Here's a picture a past race motor I built using domed pistons and valuve pockets. It was a mild motor about 250hp and 260 torque. I used a custom Crower cam with mild duration.
dougie, thanks for picture thats great, good to hear you only uprated it to a mild motor at 250hp .
Of course thinking about my initial question of valve pockets I didn't engage brain before opening mouth, as of course the piston wouldn't be at TDC with the valve open hence the pistons not having the pocket extended in to them.
Just needed to finish off some of the mechanical work, which for one reason or another didn’t get done at the time.
First – fitting of the Udo Putzke “Anti Twist Shock” kit, essentially an anti-tramp bar. This runs from just beneath the front spring hanger to the underside of the axle plate. At the front end I had two equal sized stainless spacers made up to sandwich the rubber bush in the shock, whereas at the other end the brackets which were welded to the axle plate were sized to fit .
At the other end it was time to fit the steering gear.
As I would be changing from LH to RH drive, I was going to need a new column. The best appeared to be DWM and this is what I went with as it is all set-up on delivery. The only downside is that there has been quite a backlog, but as I wasn’t in a rush, I was happy to wait. DWM also supplied a new idler..
All relatively straightforward to fit with re rest of the links cleaned up, painted and ready to go. The only downside is that at ¾ lock I get interference with the trays / ducting I had made to channel air from the grill to the radiator. These will need a bit of a rethink / adaption, but that is a job for later!!
Now talking about lead-times, the steering wheel in the above picture is a Mike Lempert Derrington style wheel ….
How do I describe my approach to the electrics; standard but not standard! Well there is a contradiction in terms. Most of the terminations are in the usual place, lights, instruments etc, and the colour coded wiring is as original.
However, there were a few additions I wanted to allow for, such as electric fan, spot lamps, hazard warning, twin fuel pumps, oil pressure indicator light, alternator, 12v auxiliary points and some internal lighting.
I also wanted to improve on the 2 fuses of the original electrical system and run as much of the wiring loom internally as possible.
I must say thanks to Steve Norton at Cape for sharing some technical info, especially on routes and cable lengths and to Autosparks (who make original AH looms) to pulling this altogether in to one coherent bound wiring loom, featuring 16 fused circuits and 8 relays.
The installation would also take the opportunity to set-up as negative earth. The heavier mains battery cables follow their normal path. The only difference here being that the front bulkhead solenoid has been replaced by a heavy-duty isolation switch.
As the Gear reduction started motor has a solenoid built in, I’ll use that.
There is still the original style mains isolation switch in the boot, but without the (white) cut-out lead to the ignition system.
The loom runs predominantly along the Right hand side of the car, from engine bay, through a grommeted hole in the far right of the bulkhead, from where it splits, with the dash, fuses, relays etc feeding along the inside of the bulkhead and the rest, predominately wires for the rear circuits dropping down and running along the floor and up following the internal seam line to the back of the wheel arch. The supply for the fuel pumps splits off and runs along the back of where the rear seat would have been, before dropping down and using the holes in the rear bulkhead which were already there to come out right by the pumps.
The remaining part of the loom creeps through the small gap where the rear bulkhead panel meets the side panels (well there was a small gap on my car!!) and comes out in the area by the fuel filler pipe. This then drops down beside the bottom of the tank and follows the reverse path than normal around the rear lights.
Hopefully this should keep everything clean and tidy.
Tried to keep the fuses and relays together on a small bracket which sits above and to the rear of where the parcel shelf will be. I also included a 12V socket and a dual USB connector here for charging things!
Now I just need to install and connect as I go! (but I guess it won’t turn out that easy – never is!)
The pic below shows a schematic of what I plan to install
For " a bit problematical" I read " crap " ! Usually a good place to look when you've got no ignition. Glad to see this installation loses the white wire
I was trying to be supportive while passing on good advice. My old BJ8 had such an ignition problem and the trouble was that it was intermittent. The V8 has a proper Armtech cutout and no problems there.
I've no concerns regarding the first switch shown, as this is more than spec'ed for the job and feels very solid and where it is, no-one is going to see it.
Regarding the original type in the boot, I may be guilty of falling for the advertising hype, but I read through the Moss bumph on their switch ( mossmotors.com/media/instructions/145-771.pdf ) and decided to give it a go. There will be no other connections involved only 1 lead in and 1 out (no white wire!!). If it starts to play up, then it will be replaced by one of the more modern "red key" items, but I just wanted to give the period look a go first.
Those isolation/cut-off switches can be a bit problematical
I disagree. What I find when most people have an intermittent that they blame on this switch is that it's more likely the ignition cylinder due to the brass fork wearing and sparking over decades, so I hope that if this switch is being replaced that the ignition cylinder switch is also replaced at the same time.
What will you be installing for for gauges? I just installed a commisioned set of bespoke correct "gold faced healey" gauges for my 100-6 MM. The "race" tach is a solid state electonic unit linked to a multi-spark system that is spot-on.